Tuesday, January 25, 2011


As an Ice climber I own more gloves then most people.  You burn them up on rappels, get them soaked on a climb from sweat or running water and have even lost pairs on the approach.  I have an entire duffel bag full of gloves right now for all different temperatures, activities, ice conditions and they all have different signs of wear.

My favorite glove line at the moment is Black Diamond.  I own about 7 different models of BD with multiple pairs of each model.  My favs are the Torque, Implus, Punisher,  Arc, and the Guide gloves.  The Punisher is probably the most used for pure ice in that mix, but even they have their drawbacks.

They come with a H20 insert to make them dry from the outside, but when you start working hard, like all liners not dry enough from the inside.  My friend James has taught me a lot of things and below is one AWESOME trick he taught me this year.  Not all routes are soaking wet, so you do NOT need a H20 proof glove.  But when the glove you want to wear is H20 proof, what do you do?!?

CUT OUT THE LINER!  Flip the glove inside out and cut out the stupid liner.  Cut out that huge baggie in all  gloves except in Outdry gloves….check this out; http://vimeo.com/5132845
Those you can’t cut out, and since I haven’t personally used them in the real world, I can’t say how much more breathable they really are.  BUT, they sure sound good and I sure want a  pair to use one of these days.

Once that huge baggie is removed, clean up the inside of the glove and get rid of all those lose threads, and messy seams.  The jobs isn’t over yet, go to your local outdoor shop and pick up yourself a $20 pair of liner gloves.  Wool or synthetic, your choice  as to what you are looking for and flip those inside out as well.  On the inside there are huge seams and they rub on your fingers.  Flip them inside out and clean them up as well with a pair of nice scissors.  Put them in the new shell glove inside out and you will have a better fitting and better performing glove in dryer conditions then the original ever were with no seams rubbing on your hands!

Monday, January 24, 2011

Adidas Outdoor and Messner

Untitled from jon jugenheimer on Vimeo.

A short clip from OR day 2 when I got the opportunity to see Messner give a talk about his climbing/exploration accomplishments over the last 40 years.  He was the key speaker for the Adidas outdoor sponsored OIA awards night. He is a good story teller and I really enjoyed my time listening to him.  He talked about climbing 8000M peaks sans o2's, skiing the poles and developing footwear with Adidas in the 70's.  

Adidas is trying to make a push into the outdoor market in the US for fall 11. http://www.adidas.com/outdoor/us/  Clothing, gear and footwear will be available to buy with the three stripes on it at your local outdoor gear shop this fall, or will it????  Anyone remember Nike ACG?? It was Nike's multiple attempts to enter the outdoor segment of the retail market, and it failed every time.  My thought is that Adidas will not make it very far in this market on this side of the Atlantic, but what the hell, I got to see Messner and it was cool!  So, good luck Adidas, cuz your going to need it.

A little Love for my Minnesota Friends

Best of the Midwest Bouldering Challenge 2011
best of the midwest poster

who:  You, your family and friends.
what:  Best of the Midwest Bouldering Challenge
when:  Sunday, Feb 27, 2011 @12p
where:  Prairie Walls Climbing Gym, Rochester, MN
why:  Bouldering goodness!
how:  Register Online
cost:  Online Registration $35 ($40 with T-shirt)  Day of Competition $40 ($50 with T-shirt) 

Come join the fun!  This is the 10th edition of the annual fundraising competition benefiting the MCA.  We hope to make it the best one yet.  This event is organized and run by volunteers. So,  if you are not interested in competing, please consider volunteering.  If you aren't able to compete or volunteer, but would like to help, you can do so by donating here.  You can also help by forwarding this email and spreading the word.
All the donations and proceeds from the event benefit the MCA.
See you there!

Glenn E Burns
MCA Volunteer

Friday, January 21, 2011

NeoShell @ OR

Out @ OR this week for some work and fun.  Skied a day at Brighton,conditions were just like home in the Midwest, the only difference was longer runs.  Hard pack,iIce, small amounts of movable snow...Just like Home!!  YAY!!

So, today was the first day of "Peddling my shit" at the show.  It is a bit slower then the last few shows for day 1 that I have attended, but still awesome none the less.  Just want to give a shout out to a new jacket coming out from Marmot for next fall. Its called the Zion Jacket for both men and Women, and is a fully taped, 2 way (up/down and left/right) stretch, waterproof softshell.  It has a minimum 10,000mm H20 rating, and a .5cfm rating for air transfer through the jacket for excellent breathability.

Check it out; http://www.pitchengine.com/polartecllc/polartec-neoshell-liberates-veterans-of-adventure/101621/

The new jacket is the yellow one.

SO, I haven't used it yes, and would love to climb a wet ice route in it to put it through the real world realities to see what it is really like.  So far my only negative thought is how thick the jacket is with a micro fleece backer on it.  It might be a bit on the warm side for being super active, but with the breathability that this has, it might not be!

I am also super excited for the new MH H20/breathable softshell for next fall.  They have some new technology that Steve S showed me that looks pretty cool.  It is a super stretchy, thin jacket that I think might turn a few heads as well!

Today, I also had the pleasure of meeting this guy; http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/  super cool dude, and I can't wait to get some of his hammers on my Nomics!  Future posts will come about those new toys.

Maybe Posts from Norway.....I leave in one week from Today!! F-YEAH!


Friday, January 14, 2011

old Training Video

This was a vid taken of a training night at our local fine establishment. This was my second go around on the route trying to do two laps. the first attempt I got all the way to one hold from the starting block, not as good in this attemtp as you can see.  What can I say, I got tired.

Thursday, January 13, 2011

I LOVE the Tetons

Photo taken by Eric Dacus. (http://ericdacus.com/) A great shot overlooking the Middle Teton and the new Osprey Hornet pack!

I wonder when I will go back next, or when I will finally just move there and set up shop...For the past few years I have visited in every season, skied on the hill, climbed the mountain, and every time felt a sense of place while there.  I feel like home when I am there, and am happy there.  Looking up at the beautifully mountains overlooking the valley, hiking up into one of the canyons, and roping up with friends is what its all about.

Old School night @ Boulders

Thats right, some Snoop Doggy Dog, Dr. Dre, Bone Thugs and Harmony, and did I hear some Notorious B.I.G???!!!  got to love the 90's

But the real news,  I sent the pink with black squiggle lines route in the cave.  It was fun!

Tuesday, January 4, 2011

Cody-Chasing the Sun WI4

Solo of the "first" and second pitch.
And I got the lead of the third pitch