Monday, January 30, 2012

For Life

4:45 am.
Drove to Telluride from Ouray
Red Bull
-2 F.
Start walking up hill.
We broke a trail in the new snow.
Get to the base of this;
(the one on the right)
Climbed the route.
Joe did some awesome work up there.
Got to the top and went down on this;

Walked down the hill.
Got to the car in the dark.
It was long.
It was tireing.
My hands hurt.

Drove back to Ouray.
More Red Bull.
Went to the pub.
Tall Tasty drinks.
More Red Bull but this time with Vodka.
Slept on the floor again.

Drove to the airport.
Threw up.
Joe got on a plane to China.
I slept on the floor by the fireplace for three hours...
Threw up again.
Drove back to Ouray.
Drove to Denver.


Slept on a couch in Estes Park.

What did you do this weekend?

Friday, January 27, 2012

"It wasn't pretty, but it was safe"

Ames Ice Hose.  1/25/12
Joe, Steve and Myself

Three pitches, thin ice, climbed it the "right" way.  Joe had the first pitch, a thin, gear-less WI5 hook fest.  The climbing wasn't hard, "easy grade 5" cuz of how hooked out it was, but it was the psychological crux of the route.  Joe was able to get in a screw of the ground to keep him from "Ass Rocketing" down the snow slope approach and into the woods.  Another few meters higher he got in two more screws.  A 16 straight in (wow) and a sideways stubby.  From there it was a run out to the top with full on ground fall potential until above the vertical section and onto the bench.

Pitch one

I say the "right way" because of the way Joe climbed it.  He kept himself safe and climbed smart.  He took on the rope instead of risking a fall.  He put in the high screws and was lowered to the ground to fully rest.  Instead of just gunning it for the top with no gear and getting pumped, he climbed the respectable way, the right way, the smart way.

  Joe firing for the top.  

Following Pitch One.  

Pitch two was the technical crux of the route, but it had gear the whole way...Thank God.  It was my pitch and I tried to back out after getting up underneath it.  Joe, being a good partner kicked my ass of the dock and into the water.  He pushed me (cuz he knows me) and I thank him for it.  It was a bit hard getting up over the overhang but I had rock gear and bomber screws below and could get in good gear above.  It was one of the harder pitches I have led in the mountains and one of the most fun times I have ever had as well. Finishing off that 55+ meter pitch was sooo cool and I will remember it for some time.

Steve topping out of Pitch two. 

Pitch three was another completely different animal.  It was thick ice getting wetting the higher you climbed.  Joe took the sharp end back and got us all to the top.  The climbing was steeper than it looked from the belay.

 Joe leading pitch three. 
The top. 

Monday, January 16, 2012

Boilerplate with Kaley.

No action shots...Maybe in the morning...

Thursday, January 12, 2012

Tele demo at Wilmot Mountain via William Ski Haus

The "Mountain"  The vertical feet measured in hundreds, the story of the Midwest.  Snow, Grass and lights, all   being an hours drive from Chicago.  Spent an evening teaching tele and demoing Scarpa boots at Wilmot Mountain.  I had three people in my little class and we started on the rope tow teaching hoe to turn making one at a time then eventually linking them into two complete turns.  He then headed to the lift all the way to the top of the Mountain.  It was a fun evening!
K2 skis were in attendance as well as the Scarpa boots I brought.  W's T2s, M's T2s and TX Comps for the NTN experience.
Learning how to link turns.  I had three people in my "Tele School" last night
Mark picking it up on night #1
getting low
A few generations between these boots!
Andrew from Williams Ski Haus!
 And...still learning how to turn...
 The pow pow was SOOOO deep!
 Super low!
 First time on Tele!
 The quaint lodge.
 The Fire Place...nice...just wish I had a drink...maybe some bourbon.
 hookin up
 An original cat pulling the hoses around for the snow guns
 Group shot!
 An original custom made snow gun....circa...way before my time!  kind cool though.
 Taken while skiing.
Self Portrait.

Wednesday, January 11, 2012


So, I got a bit bored at the gym climbing routes last month.  Just doing the same handful of routes over and over got tiring so I decided to start setting routes. So far I have set 4 routes and have enjoyed  the process WAY more than I thought I would.   I am still a noOb, but I learned a lot on my first few routes and have my systems and tools a bit more dialed.  I am really looking forward to spending more time setting in the future and leaning much much more about movement, style, aesthetics, hold types/shapes, grades...... and so much more.

Also, It has turned out to be a great way to lose yourself in the moment and quite relaxing.  Who knew?!

I also started to read this blog;  it seems to be a bit focused on comp setting, but there is SO much good info in it to learn from.  "Happy setting"  

Saturday, January 7, 2012

MWSRA pictures. The 2012 winter market. Madison, WI

Below are some photos from our Regional show this past week. Hope you enjoy! 

Good times were had for all, some cool new (and old, tired) product was shown and I am looking forward to OR in two weeks out in SLC.    

Double click for full size.