Monday, October 31, 2011

Midwest Mountaineering Expo Fall 2011

Jon Jugenheimer
Jon Jugenheimer has been climbing Ice for the last few years around the great lakes region.  From Madison, and possessing the desire to drive long distances in the winter, he has explored Wisconsin, Minnesota, the UP of Michigan, Iowa (yes, I said Iowa) and Ontario, Canada, Eh?!
He authored the Guide Book, An Ice Climbers Guide to Munising, Michigan and helped in the organization of the Nipigon Ice Fest in 2010.  He has attempted to farm ice, has climbed in a quarry, along road cuts and in mud, cuz that’s what you do as a Southern Wisconsin Ice climber!
A Guide to Ice Climbing Around the Great Lakes
This presentation will guide you around the region in 30 minutes or less, show you a few gems, answer a few questions and get you stoked for the upcoming season!

DL Pics

Rhoads on Code of the Sea.  12a. Working the moves

Louise on the Pooper.  .8/.9....whatever.  The Hardest "8" at the Lake.  

Louise on The Bone Variation.  .7

Rhoads Leading Code of the Sea.  12a

Tuesday, October 25, 2011

Summer 2011 Goals revisited

Some yes, some no.  Need to climb more.  Headed to the big stuff again this spring.

1. The North Face of the Grand.
I will be there in Aug for a week or two working and climbing.  This route will go down, plus hopefully a whole lot more:)
    Climbed 80+% of this route this august.  Ran out of daylight, climbed to slow, woke up late, first 2K of climbing harder then thought.Blah Blah Blah.....ugh

2.The Diamond.
The East Face of Longs Peak in CO.  My old Climbing Partner and I will be there the end of July.  Not sure what route, what grade, but it will be HIGH and hard.   My partner went to Europe to see a girl. how can you blame him?!?!

3. Comfortably leading sport routes into the mid 11's   didn't happen.  Cant even remember the last time i climbed Sport.  Heading to the Red this weekend...
4. Leading Trad to 11a
Close on this last fall, but I want more than one route in one location.  I want to travel leaving 11a Trad!   Did not push it this summer.  never found the drive.

5. Bouldering V4 by the end of summer. 
WTF? Bouldering!!! I cant believe I just vomited in my mouth!  But, in the gym I am projecting V3 right now, and as long as my finger feels good, I want to climb V4 in the Gym.  Maybe, just Maybe I will boulder outside sometime this season.....wont hold my breath though.    Only V3, and no trips to the local bolders outside.
6. A century ride.
I cant believe that I have actually never ridden 100 miles at once, so this summer will be the time.  Another bust, sick the weekend i was going to do this with Mike and Bryan, 

Monday, October 24, 2011

Friday, October 21, 2011

read for safer ice climbing...

My Birthday and reflection...

1. Climbed Birthday crack on Birthday rocks in my Birthday suit...on my Birthday!
2. Went for a 5 mile run in Steinke Basin
3. Took the Ferry home.

4. Got cookies from a 90 year old bakery in Lodi.
5. Went to a funeral.

People are born.  People live their lives.  People pass away.

It was an interesting mix of emotions on Tuesday.  From getting up early and climbing a route in a style I have always wanted to climb it in then heading to a celebration of life later on that day with family. My Birth (29 years ago...) to a great Uncle's death.  It was an interesting reflection on life.

What am I doing with my life? What have I done with my life? What will I do with my life?

Right now Life is really good, and I am enjoying it as much as I can.  I met an awesome woman a few weeks ago,  I am traveling and climbing again as much as possible, I started running and I am really really looking forward to the winter and what it will bring.  A few XC races, Ice and mixed climbing trips, a ski trip (maybe)  and Alaska in the Spring!