Thursday, February 24, 2011

Monday, February 21, 2011

Lake Affect

This months Climbing Mag has an AWESOME spread by Jay Knower and Pics from Andrew Burr all about my home crag, Devils Lake.  I was there on one of the photo days trying to make it in but Remo (on belay here) beat me out with his own Awesomeness! Below are a few pics of me trying to lead Thoroughfare.  It is a great .11a and an excellent intro route to the grade at the Lake.  You can see all of the pics here;
and a story about the route and my failure here;

All pics by Andrew Burr

Friday, February 18, 2011

Belay video

The highpoint of a climb in Eidford.  it took us too long in the deep snow, and on the slushy first pitch.  

Untitled from jon jugenheimer on Vimeo.

Thursday, February 17, 2011

Scarpa leather

Wild Snow, the backcountry skiing blog has a nice writeup on visiting the Scarpa factory in Italy and getting a tour of the ski and climbing boots being manufactured.  Great pics and a nice share.  I read Lou's blog every now and again and always learn some from it.  Good stuff.

Wednesday, February 16, 2011


From January 28th till Feb 13th I visited the awesome country of Norway to climb some ice.   The team of four, Joe, Bryan, Jeff, and myself split up our stay between Rjukan and Eidfjord.  Rjukan was a bit of a cragin place and Eidfjord are where the big rigs are located.  The weather was warm and the conditions not perfect, but we climbed a lot of ice none the less.

The 4 of us in Eidjord.

 Joe leading a pitch on our first day in Rjukan.
 Joe high above the east end of town on top of a stellar pillar.  We could see this climb from our cabin, all week long.

The climb below is what Joe above is on.  He is on the top left pillar of the obvious route. 

 ummm.....yeah...different route, different place, different weather...
 A 30 minute uphill walk from the town center.  Got to love Rjukan.  Joe leading another awesome route.  follow the rope through the hole.
 We got skunked on an awesome looking three pitch 5/6 early in the morning with +4C and rain.  So, we went further up the Fjord to climb an alpine wall later on in the day.  We got three pitches up to some NASTY ice and darkness due to our late start before we bailed.  It would have been nice to finish the face.  We tried the "thicker" ice on the right.
 Joe on pitch two.
 Joe on Pitch one.
Me leading pitch three.  We bailed another 30+ meters higher. 
Me leading a pitch of ice below the bridge in Rjukan.  Just like Ouray, but without the farming.....until next season.
 Me leading out of an ice cave for pitch 3 on a route above town.  kinda cool!
Me climbing an M7ish mixed route in the Upper Gorge. Tthat ice was SHIT!
 Another cool route high above town.
 Getting into the steep.
So, we went out to a bar one evening.  the exchange is 6 to 1 right do the math.
and there local beer....FATOL Aass
 And the end of the evening, Joe drunk.  It only took about 300 bucks in Jim Beam, Boxed wine, some shitty white and a few 10 dollar beers to get there, but this was one result of it.
Brian below climbing a M8 bolted route in the Upper Gorge in Rjukan.  This was one of the few bolted routes in town.  The locals aren't too big on bolts, and they are hard to find.  I actually missed Casket Quarry in Duluth this day!
 Higher up on route, after turning the corner.
Below is from a bit snowier approach on a climb in Eidford. 
It was steep and snowy 
It also got a bit colder that evening, and i got hit in the nose...
Gang 'banging' this climb!  
Ah, climbing above town is fun, 20 minutes down to the car. 
It was a bouldering trip after all!!!


Another Trade show in Madison this selling season.  A small booth this time, only a 10X10, but it is packed full of goodness.

Kevin enjoying a salad.
 Jon and Steve enjoying SUPER PRETZELS ~!!

Monday, February 14, 2011


not climbing, but some wild new fun!  It's a new sport now, from the deep powder in Norway last week!

Untitled from jon jugenheimer on Vimeo.