I could barely look out to the
horizon. My eyes were watering and my
hands quickly turning numb. One brief
shallow look into Sam’s eyes and we both wanted to bail. He was 51% ready to pull the plug. I was a
bit higher on the same scale. The fetch
was as far as one could see, the frozen lake was white, not deep blue like the
other 6 months of the year.
Today was the day. The next two were scheduled to be colder
and windier; we only had three. Still, I
wanted to bail. Sam asked If I wanted to go first, I asked him the same. He
decided to go first into a place where he had never been before, a rope length
down to the shove ice below.
It took us three hours to get there that morning, the
thermometer in the car reading well below zero when we started, but the ski in
kept us warm. There was no wind in the
trees, the thick Michigan forest keeping it at bay. It was a different scene at
the edge of the cliff. Crumbly sandstone
with drips of yellow ice from the left to the right, but we came for only
one.
Puff pants, double-puff upper, heavy belay gloves, double
boots, and I still wanted to keep moving. Sam lead up through wet ice the first
10 meters; weird. Above was hard, brittle, old yellow stained ice that the
lakeshore is known for. Easier vertical
climbing in the middle lead to harder above.
The crux was pulling up vertical ice on an attached curtain
fracturing away with every swing. The
screws went in with an extra force of the hand, a few picks got held up in the
old dense ice but the curtain was ascended, screws almost every body length for
the 10 meter crux before easier ground above.
One last stubby while still in view before the run-out
sandstone ramp above. Sam was soon back
to the safety and security of the forest on the edge, and back in the howling
winter wind.
I followed, pulled the final few screws by headlamp with the
puffy gear in the pack. A warm fire in
the woods to thaw the hands, refresh the mind, and began the journey back home
to civilization and cell service.
All Photos-Mike Wilkinson - #michiganicefilm-
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