'Outdoor' Fashion

http://www.sportsonesource.com/news/fbu/fbu_article.asp?section=4&Prod=5&id=37176&utm_source=Listrak&utm_medium=Email&utm_term=http://www.sportsonesource.com/news/fbu/fbu_article.asp%3fsection%3d4%26Prod%3d5%26id%3d37176&utm_campaign=Footwear+Business+UPDATE+-+Crocs,+Deckers,+Evolv,+Kohl's,+Sears,+Keds...

Deckers Outdoor Corporation broke $1 billion in sales last year.......wow....1 Billion.....wow....
Almost 90% of that one billion came from one brand.  UGG.  

Oh Boy,I can't wait for the S'11 collection!

Lake Affect

This months Climbing Mag has an AWESOME spread by Jay Knower and Pics from Andrew Burr all about my home crag, Devils Lake.  I was there on one of the photo days trying to make it in but Remo (on belay here) beat me out with his own Awesomeness! Below are a few pics of me trying to lead Thoroughfare.  It is a great .11a and an excellent intro route to the grade at the Lake.  You can see all of the pics here;
www.andrewburr.com/DL1
www.andrewburr.com/DL2
www.andrewburr.com/DL3
and a story about the route and my failure here;
http://climbs2high.blogspot.com/2010/10/projects-wtf-i-am-not-sport-climber.html




All pics by Andrew Burr

Belay video

The highpoint of a climb in Eidford.  it took us too long in the deep snow, and on the slushy first pitch.  


Untitled from jon jugenheimer on Vimeo.

Scarpa leather boots-Wildsnow.com

http://www.wildsnow.com/4230/scarpa-asolo-montebelluna/

Wild Snow, the backcountry skiing blog has a nice writeup on visiting the Scarpa factory in Italy and getting a tour of the ski and climbing boots being manufactured.  Great pics and a nice share.  I read Lou's blog every now and again and always learn some from it.  Good stuff.

NORWAY 2011

From January 28th till Feb 13th I visited the awesome country of Norway to climb some ice.   The team of four, Joe, Bryan, Jeff, and myself split up our stay between Rjukan and Eidfjord.  Rjukan was a bit of a cragin place and Eidfjord are where the big rigs are located.  The weather was warm and the conditions not perfect, but we climbed a lot of ice none the less.

The 4 of us in Eidjord.

 Joe leading a pitch on our first day in Rjukan.

 Joe high above the east end of town on top of a stellar pillar.  We could see this climb from our cabin, all week long.

The climb below is what Joe above is on.  He is on the top left pillar of the obvious route. 

 ummm.....yeah...different route, different place, different weather...

 A 30 minute uphill walk from the town center.  Got to love Rjukan.  Joe leading another awesome route.  follow the rope through the hole.

 We got skunked on an awesome looking three pitch 5/6 early in the morning with +4C and rain.  So, we went further up the Fjord to climb an alpine wall later on in the day.  We got three pitches up to some NASTY ice and darkness due to our late start before we bailed.  It would have been nice to finish the face.  We tried the "thicker" ice on the right.

 Joe on pitch two.

 Joe on Pitch one.

Me leading pitch three.  We bailed another 30+ meters higher. 

Me leading a pitch of ice below the bridge in Rjukan.  Just like Ouray, but without the farming.....until next season.

 Me leading out of an ice cave for pitch 3 on a route above town.  kinda cool!

Me climbing an M7ish mixed route in the Upper Gorge. Tthat ice was SHIT!

 Another cool route high above town.

 Getting into the steep.

So, we went out to a bar one evening.  the exchange is 6 to 1 right now...you do the math.

and there local beer....FATOL Aass

 And the end of the evening, Joe drunk.  It only took about 300 bucks in Jim Beam, Boxed wine, some shitty white and a few 10 dollar beers to get there, but this was one result of it.

Brian below climbing a M8 bolted route in the Upper Gorge in Rjukan.  This was one of the few bolted routes in town.  The locals aren't too big on bolts, and they are hard to find.  I actually missed Casket Quarry in Duluth this day!

 Higher up on route, after turning the corner.

Below is from a bit snowier approach on a climb in Eidford. 

It was steep and snowy 

It also got a bit colder that evening, and i got hit in the nose...

Gang 'banging' this climb!  

Ah, climbing above town is fun, 20 minutes down to the car. 

YEAH, HI5

Beautiful 

It was a bouldering trip after all!!!

MWSRA II

Another Trade show in Madison this selling season.  A small booth this time, only a 10X10, but it is packed full of goodness.

Kevin enjoying a salad.

 Jon and Steve enjoying SUPER PRETZELS ~!!

 

VEGABOOM

http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=1888920347759

not climbing, but some wild new fun!  It's a new sport now, from the deep powder in Norway last week!

Untitled from jon jugenheimer on Vimeo.

Gloves

As an Ice climber I own more gloves then most people.  You burn them up on rappels, get them soaked on a climb from sweat or running water and have even lost pairs on the approach.  I have an entire duffel bag full of gloves right now for all different temperatures, activities, ice conditions and they all have different signs of wear.

My favorite glove line at the moment is Black Diamond.  I own about 7 different models of BD with multiple pairs of each model.  My favs are the Torque, Implus, Punisher,  Arc, and the Guide gloves.  The Punisher is probably the most used for pure ice in that mix, but even they have their drawbacks.

They come with a H20 insert to make them dry from the outside, but when you start working hard, like all liners not dry enough from the inside.  My friend James has taught me a lot of things and below is one AWESOME trick he taught me this year.  Not all routes are soaking wet, so you do NOT need a H20 proof glove.  But when the glove you want to wear is H20 proof, what do you do?!?

CUT OUT THE LINER!  Flip the glove inside out and cut out the stupid liner.  Cut out that huge baggie in all  gloves except in Outdry gloves….check this out; http://vimeo.com/5132845

Those you can’t cut out, and since I haven’t personally used them in the real world, I can’t say how much more breathable they really are.  BUT, they sure sound good and I sure want a  pair to use one of these days.

Once that huge baggie is removed, clean up the inside of the glove and get rid of all those lose threads, and messy seams.  The jobs isn’t over yet, go to your local outdoor shop and pick up yourself a $20 pair of liner gloves.  Wool or synthetic, your choice  as to what you are looking for and flip those inside out as well.  On the inside there are huge seams and they rub on your fingers.  Flip them inside out and clean them up as well with a pair of nice scissors.  Put them in the new shell glove inside out and you will have a better fitting and better performing glove in dryer conditions then the original ever were with no seams rubbing on your hands!

Adidas Outdoor and Messner

Untitled from jon jugenheimer on Vimeo.


A short clip from OR day 2 when I got the opportunity to see Messner give a talk about his climbing/exploration accomplishments over the last 40 years.  He was the key speaker for the Adidas outdoor sponsored OIA awards night. He is a good story teller and I really enjoyed my time listening to him.  He talked about climbing 8000M peaks sans o2's, skiing the poles and developing footwear with Adidas in the 70's.  

Adidas is trying to make a push into the outdoor market in the US for fall 11. http://www.adidas.com/outdoor/us/  Clothing, gear and footwear will be available to buy with the three stripes on it at your local outdoor gear shop this fall, or will it????  Anyone remember Nike ACG?? It was Nike's multiple attempts to enter the outdoor segment of the retail market, and it failed every time.  My thought is that Adidas will not make it very far in this market on this side of the Atlantic, but what the hell, I got to see Messner and it was cool!  So, good luck Adidas, cuz your going to need it.

A little Love for my Minnesota Friends

Best of the Midwest Bouldering Challenge 2011

who:  You, your family and friends.
what:  Best of the Midwest Bouldering Challenge
when:  Sunday, Feb 27, 2011 @12p
where:  Prairie Walls Climbing Gym, Rochester, MN
why:  Bouldering goodness!
how:  Register Online
cost:  Online Registration $35 ($40 with T-shirt)  Day of Competition $40 ($50 with T-shirt) 

jon:
Come join the fun!  This is the 10th edition of the annual fundraising competition benefiting the MCA.  We hope to make it the best one yet.  This event is organized and run by volunteers. So,  if you are not interested in competing, please consider volunteering.  If you aren't able to compete or volunteer, but would like to help, you can do so by donating here.  You can also help by forwarding this email and spreading the word.
All the donations and proceeds from the event benefit the MCA.
See you there!

-=glenn=-
Glenn E Burns
MCA Volunteer