tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14380311847589373202024-03-18T10:52:13.912-05:00Climbs2highJJhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07538273146924056416noreply@blogger.comBlogger169125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1438031184758937320.post-39420716039449528422016-11-15T11:17:00.001-06:002016-11-15T11:17:17.940-06:00good stories? <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihdMjCZIQstiMVQ7woYFg3tJBRYlpfAtLk1zwyRHfapNpu93tKqmPO4PLlMBQR-eTeAx0QtH45L-Uet2zs5z_iN89vpVIofDN5ilSNIdnWxrQe_MsJ-Vq-zkimzlFX8mP-ec4Q-yx8s2OH/s1600/Torre+Edit2-low+res.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihdMjCZIQstiMVQ7woYFg3tJBRYlpfAtLk1zwyRHfapNpu93tKqmPO4PLlMBQR-eTeAx0QtH45L-Uet2zs5z_iN89vpVIofDN5ilSNIdnWxrQe_MsJ-Vq-zkimzlFX8mP-ec4Q-yx8s2OH/s320/Torre+Edit2-low+res.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 11pt;">A friend just asked, any good stories? </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 11pt;">Good stories</span><span style="font-size: 11pt;">? I'll tell you the real stories over a beer they say. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 11pt;">So far we had one rather large rat enter our tent and proceeded
to wake </span><span style="font-size: 11pt;">us</span><span style="font-size: 11pt;"> up at 3am by walking across
my face….<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 11pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I fell into a crevasse up to my waist<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 11pt;">I got knocked</span><span style="font-size: 11pt;"> </span><span style="font-size: 11pt;">onto
my ass due to the wind</span><span style="font-size: 11pt;">, twice. Very rude as Dave said </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 11pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We have hiked over 110 KMs so far (only ~20 without a load) and
have yet to climb a thing<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 11pt;">I can’t speak Spanish to save my ass, but the cookies are
cheap</span><span style="font-size: 11pt;">. A </span><span style="font-size: 11pt;">small bag full for 50 pesos </span><span style="font-size: 11pt;">at the internet/bakery/café </span><span style="font-size: 14.6667px;">in town</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 11pt;">I have lost weight, even though we eat a bag of said cookies per
day</span><span style="font-size: 11pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 11pt;">Most of the ski</span><span style="font-size: 11pt;">n</span><span style="font-size: 11pt;"> has
peeled off my face from the sun and wind burn of the first week<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 11pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I have already patched my hard shell pants and jacket, and
again, still haven’t climbed a thing<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 11pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Multiple blisters on both of my feet<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 11pt;">Broke the shoulder harness on my big BD pack, g</span><span style="font-size: 11pt;">o</span><span style="font-size: 11pt;">t it repaired in town for 100 pesos</span><span style="font-size: 11pt;"> by a very lovely lady and her chain smoking friend in a
too small a room</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 11pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">And we have been here for two weeks and have only seen all of
Cerro Torre one day. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 11pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Drank Mate for the first time, didn't care for it too much</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 11pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Had a Patagonian style BBQ, amazing. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 11pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">That’s about it so far, but two weeks are left.</span></span></div>
JJhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07538273146924056416noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1438031184758937320.post-59685889385173988812016-07-11T18:13:00.000-05:002016-07-12T15:44:06.852-05:00The North Face of Edith Cavell<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiv51fTxP4EEBZls_OZCGygK3FKWKNTGFDOKHrFRVenOKcMkS8VBUJQkS9_fmgco8jTLfgutg3hAh-MNiNY23F9UCkWLRqM6_gS0RcER9lxmIVIPKxKOjiM0QBPIeH7KKWIW4jnAPsQBrN/s1600/IMG_3653.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiv51fTxP4EEBZls_OZCGygK3FKWKNTGFDOKHrFRVenOKcMkS8VBUJQkS9_fmgco8jTLfgutg3hAh-MNiNY23F9UCkWLRqM6_gS0RcER9lxmIVIPKxKOjiM0QBPIeH7KKWIW4jnAPsQBrN/s400/IMG_3653.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">My picture of the Postcard from the Tourist Shop in town with our line drawn on it. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">As always click the image to enlarge it.</span></div>
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Mount Edith Cavell. ~1,200 meters (~4,000 feet) of vertical gain from the lake at the bottom of the face (not pictured above) to the Summit. A classic Rockies route, first put up by a few of North America's greats, Beckey and Chouinard in the early 1960's (plus Doody! to snap pictures). </div>
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July 7, Dave Rone and I finally had our crack at this face, for our first summer route together in the range. I left Madison Wisconsin Tuesday am the 5th, picking up Dave in Eau Clare, and I leaving. 1800 miles later we were in Jasper on the late afternoon of the 6th after checking weather forecasts and other high north faces on our tick list along the drive north.<br />
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We had a 24 hr window or so up in Jasper and rain was forecatasted everywhere else in the range so we got right to it. The alarm went off at 2am, we packed up our tent hidden in the trees surrounding the parking lot and started hiking. We didn't scope the approach to the Angel Glacier all that well the day before, but it went pretty smooth and two hours later or so we were on the glacier.<br />
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We trended up and left from leaving the moraine, crossed a few small trickles of waterfalls on the face, never finding any bolts or rap stations talked about elsewhere. We did however find 2 or 3 cairns along the way which kept our belief high we were on the right track. We ended up getting pretty close to the falling Angel Glacier on the side, and below it where its wings stretch outwards from center for maybe 30 minutes to make the approach. The ledges ran out and we ended up soloing some 5.6 terrain with a splash of 5.7 thrown in to keep the heart up. We traversed a large ledge system back right to get out from underneath the glacier, crossed a snow field to find a couloir which we took to the top.<br />
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Crossing the glacier was trivial, a few small cracks here and there, then up the snow ramp to the schrund. We found a small belay spot on the rocks past the schrund and a place to fill up on water before the next few thousand feet of climbing above. I took off for the first real lead of the day and stretched the rope all the way out. Mostly M3 and M4 run-out climbing on broken rock and snowy ledges. Once tight, Dave started climbing and we began the first of many simul pitches up the face.<br />
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We worked our way up and left, including one long traverse to keep to the path of least resistance, and thus the fastest. Above, I continued on a simul belay through a M4 small gash, with a move of M5 then up an unprotected snowfield to a rock band to set a real belay again. Switching to rock shoes here, I then attempted the drier face of a small buttress, but hard climbing and no gear lead me back left to Dave's advice into a chimney. I pulled out a small rusted baby angle at the belay, and clipped a fixed chock in the chimney, so I knew we must have been on route at least here during the climb. Up and back right with two pieces of gear in 30 meters on an easy, but exposed traverse brought us closer to the actual rock buttress of the route. One more 15 meter traverse, then finally onto the buttress.<br />
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I set up our first belay of the crux rock pitches on what looked like a crumbling pillar/pile of rocks leaning back into the mountain. It was more solid than it looked and provided a great belay in a stellar protected location. Above lie the small roof crux of the route. Up a wide crack in the corner for a meter or two, then finding two really good pieces, a small cam and a wire to protect the move, the roof was passed to the left finding small feet and a crimp or two above. I ran the rope out another 20 meters or so up easier 5.5 terrain left of the buttress, turned a left facing corner, steep climbing but with good holds to the right and onto a large ledge (large enough to bivy). The money climbing of the pitch was still above the ledge, and plenty of rope left, I decided to run it up this section as well to keep moving. Pulling off the ledge I thought was the crux (5.8) into a splitter two crack system, merging into one crack in the back of a right facing corner. I wish I saved our one number 3 for this section, but didn't and had to run it out a bit. Pulled another awkward bit of climbing onto the block ledge above for another perfect belay location and learned Popeye climbed this route as well! His can of spinach was still there.<br />
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I continued up the last of the rock pitches on the buttress proper still in my rock shoes. The rock was<br />
completely dry up until this point and since the angle was beginning to back off, the face was holding snow again. Dave and I pitched out the next two-three pitches still in our rock shoes, scrambling from ledge to dirty ledge with the occasional snow that couldn't be avoided and mid-5th class rock step trending up and left. I finally got as high as I could on the rock rib before the wetness, the snow, and the choss forced me back right and into a belay that took a bit to construct. <br />
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Changing back into boots and crampons, I took off up and right, finding the only two screws on the route. I ran it out another 40 meters to the end of the rope looking for an easy way to the left. Dead end, so I traversed right until I hit crap, scary snow. With only one option, we headed back into mixed M4 terrain which was slower then the pure snow pitches.<br />
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From the belay, l lead out left and up a short M5 step with marginal gear and back into the standard M4 terrain the lower 1/3 of the mountain was known for. We simul-climbed maybe 150-200 meters getting gear every 25 meters or so. The weather began to finally change for the worse, as it snowed just a bit an hour or so earlier. It became full blown July snowstorm, with corn pellets (not graupel, as we are form Wisconsin and all) pelting us in our eyes if we looked up. Climbing up though the small runnels which offered safer snow climbing, the spin drift avalanches started and ran on and off for the next 1/2 hour. The visibility also went to shit and Dave and I couldn't see each other on the other end of the rope. Our last good belay between here and the top was made, as Dave took over the leading to take us to the top. We swapped the rack, which was mostly just a move to take the weight off my shoulders, not for him to actually use much of it... He took off getting in three pieces in 30 meters, then nothing for the next 30. I started climbing and he kept going another 60 meters through the upper snow fields in a whiteout with the snow falling.<br />
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We moved for a bit with no gear between us in soft snow, allowing just enough purchase to make it safe. He finally reached a rock band above and plugged in a cam. A welcome relief as he kept climbing as well. Dave traversed left as much as up to try to avoid the shale band described in the guidebook as shit rock, with no gear. After another 60 meters of up and left, Dave set a belay with a tool in a crack, a #3 C4 and a small C3. I didn't weight the anchor when I arrived. We swapped a tool for the final pitch of the route, as we didn't want to take part of the belay out. We could see the cornice above, huge in some places but in the visibility it was really hard telling how far or how close it really was.<br />
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Dave led out through a small shale step, loose and not secure but that didn't slow him down at all. Then back right to a low spot in the cornice. He hacked his way through, up and over to the top. Apparently it was windy up there he said. I pulled the anchor, and was belayed up off his hip to the top where I quickly learned of this wind he was talking about...We both put on every layer we brought with, stayed roped up, quickly snapped a picture each and headed for the west ridge descent.<br />
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If you have ever gone down that, you know what it is, and why it sucks. It was my second time doing that descent and hopefully I will NEVER do it again. Total crap rock, a bone crushing long way of a walk out and an overall not enjoyable experience. I am not going to get into it here, but the descent took us almost as long as the ascent I felt! Lost in the clouds, out of water once leaving the west bowl, out of energy from driving 1800 miles the previous 2 days and now this....I had to stop and nap in the woods for 2 hours to continue only waking up from the shivering. I watched the early morning twilight turn into dawn for the second time that "day" and finally took a drink of water once back at the car, some 27 hours after leaving.<br />
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"Staring at him once more in the eyes I feel no fear...I have no choices. Where there is no choice there can be no doubt, no hesitation....I will survive because I must survive. He vanishes" <br />
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<b>The Third Party</b></div>
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<i>John Lauchlan</i></div>
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Excerpt from <b>The Bold and Cold</b></div>
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While trying to make progress in the mixed terrain above the crux rock pitches I was getting shut down on traversing options. Dave and I both realized we couldn't retreat even if we wanted to, it would have been impossible, we only had one rope. We didn't have any choices, only up. This was a first experience for me, quite liberating actually. I remember having a crystal clear mind after. I hope to return to that state soon.<br />
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<br />JJhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07538273146924056416noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1438031184758937320.post-39002348679056383352016-03-24T15:09:00.001-05:002016-04-07T15:15:03.596-05:00Gimme Shelter-Canadian Rockies<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Dave's and my annual trip to Canada. Each March for the last few seasons, we head up for some warm weather, big sun and plastic ice-Paradise-<br />
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This trip was open ended, with a week and a half scheduled that turned into two via a high pressure system rolling into town for the last few days. Couldn't drive home early!<br />
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Tick list via each day<br />
1-25 hour drive straight to the Ghost from Wisconsin<br />
2-Wicked Wanda<br />
3-The Real Big Drip<br />
4-Rest Day<br />
5-Johnson Canyon<br />
6-Lower and Upper Weeping Wall (6 hrs RT)<br />
7-Pilsner Pillar<br />
Last Call<br />
Carlsberg Column<br />
Cascade Kronenbourg<br />
8-Rest Day<br />
9-Monsieur Hulot (17 hrs RT)<br />
10-Rest Day<br />
11-Super Bock<br />
12-Ski Approach to Consolation Lakes<br />
13-Gimme Shelter (~8 hrs on route) and ski to car (~36 hrs RT)<br />
14-Drive home<br />
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After every big route, we wanted MORE! After Gimme, we were done. It was time to go home.<br />
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The 13 mile or so ski in took about 5 hrs. Not bad. We scoped the route and put in a track to follow to the base of the route that evening as well before dinner. The am came early, up at 5am to -19C. Perfect temps for the objective hazards of the route. We got to the base of the route and racked up, no sign of anything falling down, and only a few point release slides via solar triggers.<br />
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I lead the first pitch. Thin ice, shitty ice when thicker. Went at 4+ unto the large snow bench. A full 70 meters to the belay. Dave took the second pitch. A Full 70 meters out (we brought 15 screws) to a three piece belay (Dave never makes three piece belays on ice). Seconding the pitch, removing 1/2 of his screws that were crap, the other 1/2 good. The climbing was hard. Vertical and shitty ice. <br />
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Getting to that belay "I will follow you up all the way, but I am not going to lead this shit and am ready to get back to WI now" Dave's reply "WE are going UP!"<br />
Damn that man has got it!<br />
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Dave lead the next 4 pitches. Some easier, some harder. The crux for us came at Pitch # 5. We graded it WI7. Not a number I have ever used in my past before, nor Dave. But I can say it with a straight face.<br />
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Down the route via 5 raps on threads to the ground. Back at the tent before dark and out to the car by 1 am. A local hardman, and an ex local hardman both think about a dozen people have finished this route. Fuckin impressive to them all.<br />
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<br />JJhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07538273146924056416noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1438031184758937320.post-76952380025798461732015-03-28T23:35:00.000-05:002015-03-30T20:40:56.347-05:00Dancing on ice in our northern neighbors' back yard<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Another fantastic trip to Canada with Dave Rone for SPRING BREAK 2015!!!!! We landed in Calgary late Friday night, departed the 2nd Sunday after for 8 possible climbing days.<br />
We managed some excellent climbing, one link up of two large ice routes and a bit of rock climbing on an "active rest day" just outside of Canmore.<br />
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The tick list (with the grades we found them in 'ish);<br />
Rhamnusia: M8 WI6 160m (Dave led to the top of the mixed only)<br />
French Reality: M7++ WI6 145m<br />
Link up of Hydrophobia WI5+ 160m and The Sorcerer WI5 210m<br />
Sport climbing in Cougar creek up to 10c<br />
Nemesis: WI5+ 140m<br />
Man Yoga: First two real pitches: M7 & M7<br />
-Final climbing day...I left my boots at the hotel...learned this after the two hour drive to the base of This House of Sky-WI4 500m in the Ghost...needless to say, we didn't climb...DANG!<br />
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Below are a few pics from the trip;<br />
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first 2 pitches of Rhamnusia</div>
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M8 3rd pitch</div>
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base of French Reality</div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
2ed pitch of French</div>
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traveling in style in the Ghost Wilderness</div>
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The Sorcerer</div>
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finally above the coulds</div>
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a foreshortened Hydrophobia</div>
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sport climbing on an ice trip?!?!</div>
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back to the headwall for day #3 up there!</div>
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1st pitch of Nemesis </div>
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2nd pitch</div>
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2nd pitch of Man Yoga</div>
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driving home from the Ghost after I forgot my boots...</div>
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<br />JJhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07538273146924056416noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1438031184758937320.post-44269935262926042482015-03-05T10:32:00.000-06:002015-03-05T12:44:12.920-06:00#FallenFeather<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-weight: normal;">I could barely look out to the
horizon. My eyes were watering and my
hands quickly turning numb. One brief
shallow look into Sam’s eyes and we both wanted to bail. He was 51% ready to pull the plug. I was a
bit higher on the same scale. The fetch
was as far as one could see, the frozen lake was white, not deep blue like the
other 6 months of the year. </span></div>
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Today was the day. The next two were scheduled to be colder
and windier; we only had three. Still, I
wanted to bail. Sam asked If I wanted to go first, I asked him the same. He
decided to go first into a place where he had never been before, a rope length
down to the shove ice below.</div>
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It took us three hours to get there that morning, the
thermometer in the car reading well below zero when we started, but the ski in
kept us warm. There was no wind in the
trees, the thick Michigan forest keeping it at bay. It was a different scene at
the edge of the cliff. Crumbly sandstone
with drips of yellow ice from the left to the right, but we came for only
one.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVjcpbncXsg9zuyGFv3w6nh2daQ7CpJvszot6rXQ9jRI2fZnP3VwI5KJZyPXpId1hqAyWItfjMyz34lMya2I_ohratp9ugKjHAFd5R4h5Z0xa9vXCsRtoWTvjQC1743Gb1vhPPIB2eouLd/s1600/FF2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVjcpbncXsg9zuyGFv3w6nh2daQ7CpJvszot6rXQ9jRI2fZnP3VwI5KJZyPXpId1hqAyWItfjMyz34lMya2I_ohratp9ugKjHAFd5R4h5Z0xa9vXCsRtoWTvjQC1743Gb1vhPPIB2eouLd/s1600/FF2.jpg" height="212" width="320" /></a></div>
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Sam tied in, I lowered him down to see if the route would
even go. It would, and the wind was
shallow at the bottom. Sam’s eyes
opened, and we both took a deeper look. He took a chance and decided to take
advantage of the moment. He racked up,
we rappelled to the lake ice and pulled the ropes. <br />
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Puff pants, double-puff upper, heavy belay gloves, double
boots, and I still wanted to keep moving. Sam lead up through wet ice the first
10 meters; weird. Above was hard, brittle, old yellow stained ice that the
lakeshore is known for. Easier vertical
climbing in the middle lead to harder above.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikFQuT9M87gEaF4e7aSLxlaJ3V9pmIl_YtCk-prsAGevPDMZgSfmGy4uKmOA7sSgsphbM7A2hbKyTGH1actY8BUBNGSWtuw9dbGrVirHGE1uA3k0yJa460tkKef_RiU73VuFcn75HusV2O/s1600/FF1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikFQuT9M87gEaF4e7aSLxlaJ3V9pmIl_YtCk-prsAGevPDMZgSfmGy4uKmOA7sSgsphbM7A2hbKyTGH1actY8BUBNGSWtuw9dbGrVirHGE1uA3k0yJa460tkKef_RiU73VuFcn75HusV2O/s1600/FF1.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></div>
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The crux was pulling up vertical ice on an attached curtain
fracturing away with every swing. The
screws went in with an extra force of the hand, a few picks got held up in the
old dense ice but the curtain was ascended, screws almost every body length for
the 10 meter crux before easier ground above.</div>
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One last stubby while still in view before the run-out
sandstone ramp above. Sam was soon back
to the safety and security of the forest on the edge, and back in the howling
winter wind. </div>
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I followed, pulled the final few screws by headlamp with the
puffy gear in the pack. A warm fire in
the woods to thaw the hands, refresh the mind, and began the journey back home
to civilization and cell service.</div>
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All Photos-Mike Wilkinson - #michiganicefilm-</div>
JJhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07538273146924056416noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1438031184758937320.post-31017649973089097872015-02-03T11:15:00.000-06:002015-02-03T11:18:54.081-06:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz4O_m_CygT6uNLNMr-_LZVgDx84ETH2pXQsb15AVZc_Pt1-3S0SlgURwahiy8njImuDTsf6mdTfa9vtIKksn-NizdHoD-iCTCaRBE02Rn3VKFH82O2X-ZNwD-Ct6L4UwaoYniru72NZvz/s1600/MichiganIcefilm-screenshot.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz4O_m_CygT6uNLNMr-_LZVgDx84ETH2pXQsb15AVZc_Pt1-3S0SlgURwahiy8njImuDTsf6mdTfa9vtIKksn-NizdHoD-iCTCaRBE02Rn3VKFH82O2X-ZNwD-Ct6L4UwaoYniru72NZvz/s1600/MichiganIcefilm-screenshot.jpg" height="225" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
Feb 7 2015-Saturday Night-Michigan Ice Fest-Teaser Release </div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Film release Feb 2016<br />
<span style="text-align: left;"><br /></span>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
https://clearcoldcinema.squarespace.com</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Michigan-Ice-Fest</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
https://www.facebook.com/MichiganIceFilm</div>
</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
</div>
JJhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07538273146924056416noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1438031184758937320.post-54196404927686091592014-12-02T11:53:00.002-06:002014-12-02T11:53:23.054-06:00Commit to the Pact<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="281" mozallowfullscreen="" src="//player.vimeo.com/video/110185527" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="500"></iframe> <a href="http://vimeo.com/110185527">Commit to The Pact</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/accessfund">Access Fund</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.JJhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07538273146924056416noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1438031184758937320.post-18025381232085514182014-12-01T16:24:00.004-06:002014-12-01T20:28:17.495-06:0014/15 ice season starter<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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It was a cold weekend up in Nipigon Canada...<br />
<br />
Liz and I spent Thursday a.m. in Duluth climbing with Adam at Casket Quarry. After Thanksgiving dinner with Adam's family, we drove north to the metropolis of Nipigon that evening to settle in at the Beaver Motel for the weekend. We climbed Remember the Day, Ranxerox Tangent, and Tears of Joy for our first day out on Friday. It was cold and the ice was very brittle. Very brittle. Saturday brought us back to the Ice Palace to attempt Eveil Des Sens (too wet) and then Off the Couch (too weak) so we bailed without Liz swinging a tool for the a.m. We drove to the end of the corridor and hopped on an easy condition Andromeda Weeps where I proceeded to leave my tools on the top of the climb after rappelling down. Liz went back up to get them for her second lap. Then we ran back to the car to get one more climb in for the day, as I like to say a "bonus" route to get in before dark.<br />
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We were going to get on Obsession, but decided to head over to Cascade instead as the darkness was coming fast. We climbed the right side of Cascade, with Liz finishing in the dark. Sunday brought us out early for another route before heading home. We both got up a dripping Obsession before returning to the car, frozen and bailing on another "bonus" climb. Started the drive south instead; dinner in Duluth, Madison at 11pm.</div>
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Liz on Tears of Joy</div>
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Liz topping out on Andromeda Weeps<br />
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My high point on Eveil. It was the first climb of Saturday and I wasn't committed to getting soaked</div>
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Liz topping out on Cascade in the dark<br />
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Liz finishing Obsession<br />
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Carter and Co. on Cascade. Note Carter climbing in his parka...</div>
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And...the new bridge over the Nipigon River is being built...state-of-the-art. Very cool to see Hwy 11 transform into a super highway of the future. </div>
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Best part of the trip, MOM's COOKIES!!!!!!!!</div>
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JJhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07538273146924056416noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1438031184758937320.post-32931959930808818992014-10-19T22:24:00.000-05:002014-10-19T22:24:03.365-05:00Stool Pigeon pics<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Top two from Doug Hemken</div>
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Bottom from Caliebe</div>
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<br />JJhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07538273146924056416noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1438031184758937320.post-18335988012163371562014-10-13T17:32:00.002-05:002014-10-13T17:32:52.645-05:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Thursday Night</div>
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7pm</div>
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Memorial Union.</div>
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B there. Slideshow. Popcorn?!?!</div>
JJhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07538273146924056416noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1438031184758937320.post-34596956070543115022014-10-06T21:40:00.000-05:002014-10-06T21:47:13.926-05:00Moosejaw Fall Clinic weekend<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Click on the picks to make them full size.</div>
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<br />JJhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07538273146924056416noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1438031184758937320.post-43868379247780355842014-08-02T00:34:00.002-05:002014-08-02T00:38:38.606-05:00The Beartooth Spire & the summit register<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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The other day Liz and I made the trek into the Beartooths to camp for two nights and climb the spire behind us which the range is named after. It was an amazing adventure into the wilderness, not seeing another soul for over 48 hours, wishing we had more time to walk further, see more and climb higher.<br />
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We climbed The Bear Tooth Spire in 4 pitches, and descended in 6 rappels back to the shoulder above the scree covered slabs, in which we made 4 more rappels back to the snowfield below.<br />
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It was 19 total hours of hiking in and out for 2 hours of climbing and 1 hour of rappelling. The ratio doesn't make any sense, but you wouldn't understand the value if you haven't been there yourself.<br />
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The summit register was worked, it was soaking wet, smelly, old and falling apart. Liz and I decided to pull it and bring it back to town. We spoke with Marko in Bozeman and he is going to install a new one, where the old one is destine to end up with a local climber hopefully named Rusty as soon as it can be dried out and delivered.<br />
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That summit register is bad ass, quite possibly the coolest summit register I have ever tried to sign (the last page was too wet to write). Jack Tackle, JoJo, a guy named Lauren like 600 times, the FA party on the first page and my favorite entry by Derek that posted a Jim Birdwell quote, and other climbers I have heard of and some not all dated and signed.. There were many years the spire didn't receive an ascent, some years only a few and one recorded winter ascent by that Lauren guy again...He gets after it!<br />
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Hopefully the register will be preserved for the history of Montana climbing and more people will venture out and onto the top of the Spire.<br />
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"Sport Climbing is like Sport Fucking! ...a lot of fun and not very much commitment!"<br />
Jim Birdwell<br />
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<br />JJhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07538273146924056416noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1438031184758937320.post-30767768595707309382014-07-25T10:18:00.000-05:002014-07-25T10:29:22.774-05:00The Diamond in the sky<br />
330am. The stars were amazing and the moon was bright on a warm night in the cirque. The girls were sleeping in a rock shelter and the boy (me!) out in the open. SNOOZE....334am..I guess we better be getting up now. <br />
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736pm we walked into The Rock Inn to get some dinner and a drink. 1hr wait says the hostess until three people left the bar at the same time and we saw Bryan (one of the fine proprietors of that fine establishment). He hooked us up fat and we ate quick. Polly was hungry, I was thirsty and I am not sure what Tera was, as I just meet her a few days before in front of Ed's on main.<br />
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1128am. Polly lead the crux pitch to table ledge and brought us up. Pulling 10a moves a wee bit below 14,000 feet was a wee bit hard. I was hyperventilating at the belay...<br />
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450am. We started up the North Chimney before the first real light along with 7 of our closest friends getting to the Broadway ledge in three 60 pitches and a bit of simul-climbing. I lead in sneakers and loose rock. At least it was dry loose rock.<br />
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~550am. Tera lead pitch one and two, I lead three, Tera lead four and Polly lead five and the traverse off the face. We were a good team, smooth transitions, smooth climbing and laughing all the way up the 1,700 feet of climbing from the snow at the base to the top of the mountain.<br />
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1210pm. We stopped for "Treats and Water" when we found a bit of snow melt to fill our bottles on the way to the summit. We were out of water as we only brought 2.5L up the route with us. <br />
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100pm. SUMMIT PARTY! Need I say more?!?! Girls jump, boys watch. Good times.<br />
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308pm. We were stoked, sunburned, dehydrated and tired, but made it back to camp, treated more water and took off for the beers (for them) and some Makers in the creek stashed far below.<br />
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414pm. The beers and whisky were put down & I felt drunk (not lying) then the girls took off running and beat me back to the car. <br />
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537pm the next day. <br />
Vanessa. "I just got your text"<br />
Me. "Huh?"<br />
Vanessa "From yesterday" <br />
My text. "Mutha Fuckin Crushed it! So Stoked!"<br />
"My phone sucks..."<br />
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<br />JJhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07538273146924056416noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1438031184758937320.post-76609298645524761262014-07-18T12:52:00.000-05:002014-07-18T13:06:31.888-05:00The chossy choss pile of chossiest choss The Maroon Bells in Aspen. In the summer. Bad idea. Why to people even do this?<br />
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But, we didn't know. We had no idea. "You don't know, what you don't know".<br />
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So, Fabrizio and I set off the other day to climb the Bells traverse, from south to north. We brought a rope, a light rack, a few slings and no harnesses just incase. The old bowline on a coil should work just fine for that.<br />
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We hiked in a bit before 5am, and got back to the car about 11 hrs later with around 5500 feet of elevation gain for the day. A few pics below of the choss.<br />
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<br />JJhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07538273146924056416noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1438031184758937320.post-15299926847316258052014-07-13T23:27:00.001-05:002014-07-14T10:15:48.148-05:00A Teton Classic<div>
Andrews Pics found here on his stream;</div>
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https://www.flickr.com/photos/aewike/</div>
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Jake, Andrew and myself hiked up high into the depths of the central Teton Range on Friday to attempt the Black Ice Couloir, which separates the Grand Teton from the Enclosure. Avoiding the storms to our south, we arrived at the Moraine camp, set up shop and cooked dinner. <br />
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Out of camp at 3pm we made quick work of the Valhalla Traverse in the dark, arriving almost to the turn of the SW ridge by first light. The traverse was still holding snow in certain north facing aspects, but soft enough to plunge step our away across. We made a quick rest stop to put on our crampons and eat before turning the corner into the west side of the mountain. </div>
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Traversing on the rocky ledges and the snow slopes were pretty straight forward to get past the Enclosure Couloir which was all terrain I have been on before, but was a slight guess in my head after. I continued to lead the last of the snow traversing up and left to get to the base of the rock, which I believed to be the opening 5.6 slab to gain the route proper.</div>
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We pulled the gear out of our packs and tied into the ropes for the first of 7 belayed pitched. The rock was completely dry (not expecting that!) and looked like it had a lot of good edges to keep my crampons on. I lead out a full 60 meters to the set a belay off a cam and a fixed pin with a fun bit of climbing up and over small roof at about the 40m mark. </div>
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Jake and Andrew came up and we set off up the couloir in another 6 pitches. There was a lot of snow still lingering around from the long winter with small patches of ice below. The ice crux was high up the Couloir, about 60 meters below the top. It consisted of a stubby about 1/2 the way in for gear, but good ice and quality climbing up and over the small chockstone. <br />
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Andrew took the last pitch to the top in sugar snow....that sucked...and we started back down to the valley bottom for pizza and a long ride home to get back to Madison by Sunday night.<br />
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JJhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07538273146924056416noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1438031184758937320.post-33464598447190044582014-05-30T12:18:00.002-05:002014-05-30T12:18:59.332-05:00Absolutely Amazingly Awesome.http://alpinist.com/doc/web14s/newswire-johnson-north-face-cooper-jennings<br />
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<br />JJhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07538273146924056416noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1438031184758937320.post-28323317970797909872014-05-23T12:04:00.001-05:002014-05-23T12:04:32.516-05:00Mt. Huntington Three books went down in 5 days while waiting for "perfect" weather. I finished <i>The Kite Runner, </i>Malcolm Gladwell's <i>Outliers, </i>and a book called <i>Adrift</i> which was about a fella spending 46 days in a raft drifting across the Atlantic after his sail boat sank on a solo east to west crossing. <br />
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Mr. Peabody and I flew into the range and landed on the Tokositna (Tok) on Sunday, the same day we arrived in Talkeetna. TAT got us up and out of town in the later afternoon, landing on the glacier as my friend Nick Buda was heading home. Nick and his partner, Bryce climbed the Harvard route a day or two before to the top. Very cool.<br />
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Our goal was to climb the West Face Couloir on Mt. Huntington. With our myopic view of the week, we let go of a small weather window to do something(but not big enough for the goal), something that two two East coasters took advantage of by getting most of the way up the first bit of the Colton-Leech and then coming back down. <br />
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Mr. Peabody did a lot of skiing, I did a lot of reading and resting from the flu the week before. I was a super fun week of falling asleep with layers of clothes on under all the covers shivering, only to wake up 4 hrs later sweating so much it's disgusting. Needless to say, I washed all my bedding that week...<br />
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The group that was there, 6 other people, no more or no less from Sunday when we flew in until the next flight in on Friday were a good bunch. 2 dudes, one from AK and one from the Pacific NW, 2 ladies one from SLC and one from Idaho and the other to fellas from NY. Small amounts of conversations throughout each day, packing in the run way one afternoon and general glacier living in AK. Weather, weather and other climbs dominated the conversation, as well as food. What ya are having for dinner was always interesting.<br />
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The weather forecast (via sat phones that the ladies had) was good for Friday, so we packed our kit and got up early. To of the other teams were also heading out that am, the ladies for the Colton-Leech and the dudes for the Harvard route. They packed bivy gear, we did not. <br />
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Leaving the tent at 3am, we followed out tracks up to the upper bench and over the 2ed 'shrund that we put in the day before. We cramponed up perfect conditions to the base of the route, which was climbed in 14 hrs RT, super fun and then flew out on Sunday to catch a Monday flight south. The End ;)<br />
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<br />JJhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07538273146924056416noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1438031184758937320.post-11421977695164121382014-03-18T19:35:00.000-05:002014-03-18T19:35:31.151-05:00The day we almost didn’t climb Sea of Vapours<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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(Click on the pictures for full value)</div>
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As Dave Rone drank his coffee, I drank my Red Bull as we
drove the 30 minutes from the hotel in Dead Man’s Flats to the trail head in
Banff. <i>Sea of Vapours</i> was on our minds as Dave saw a pic on Facebook the
night before of Ian Welsted climbing it the day before that. This route was always in the back of my mind
as a “someday…” and at the very top of Dave’s tic list now. The alarm went off at 4am, and Dave was already
awake. </div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
DR “I was up at 3am and wanted to wake you up but decided
not to”</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
JJ “Why?!?”<o:p></o:p></div>
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DR “Oh, man. I am so
Jacked right now I couldn't sleep!”</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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It was a long approach totaling 4 hours car to base. Walking the road for the first hour chatting
the whole time about past climbs, future climbs, and other stupid shit sped up the walk. The road in was quick
and easy, even though Dave went down on a patch of black ice in the dark. The next bit was damn near straight uphill on
“dust on crust” but this time the curst was being ice. Well, the dust quick changed into deepening
and deeper snow the higher up we got.
Thank god Ian’s trail wasn’t completely blown in and we had a path to
follow up, only losing it a few times. Dave
and I both spent time at the front re-breaking parts of the trail, sometimes up
to our hips swimming….<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG_itXZkZFqW8wfibrRHU2HSYlqbPMX-1l9p54lff0cUTB1-SgOQ2yroGYTj0tsvWHuDmn88MrUsX-ztSfqVmI0P40mTpAsqnfM77ETHcJHQagK1XDhiLGBLs8mOUOrDhF6sun7rKTRweT/s1600/P3170007.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG_itXZkZFqW8wfibrRHU2HSYlqbPMX-1l9p54lff0cUTB1-SgOQ2yroGYTj0tsvWHuDmn88MrUsX-ztSfqVmI0P40mTpAsqnfM77ETHcJHQagK1XDhiLGBLs8mOUOrDhF6sun7rKTRweT/s1600/P3170007.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBD4G9-mJgb4DIwS0_eqn13i9z5V_7u1eCZXky9OeoDo96K9Up63dq_BYuxiOFmHZQVW7xj248FnRdsEgSp4YQY4BbQiBGiyWsFmB7zJo7lOu_hJzuDFqx5TT1nA0Ye497cgmjMCFwTGuP/s1600/P3170011.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBD4G9-mJgb4DIwS0_eqn13i9z5V_7u1eCZXky9OeoDo96K9Up63dq_BYuxiOFmHZQVW7xj248FnRdsEgSp4YQY4BbQiBGiyWsFmB7zJo7lOu_hJzuDFqx5TT1nA0Ye497cgmjMCFwTGuP/s1600/P3170011.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a><o:p> </o:p></div>
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We made up and over another ridge line, another patch of
trees, and another snow slope arriving with a clear view of the route above via
a ridge line on the left. Dave couldn't quite
remember the path over to the little cave below the route to gear up at, so we
traversed low under the cliff line and then up to the cave. Once through the traverse we headed straight up
the snow bowl until a….."Thump"….but it was a “soft” "Thump"…<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
JJ “Did you hear that?” <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
DR “Yeah, what was that”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
JJ “The slope settling…”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
DR “Let’s get up and left!”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
JJ “Exactly!!”<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcAQM-uDfIv_gW9t0hrWXA8zDhPduls785bOBZx6yfK_4o0AKumOiUDQW2r7St3wCTLlqwFWZa3fZBzQfu4OXn7KXDPs7z1l-0SzWv1a2JolCUdEuGKZO8FKLdhNP3efBNUqqN6eVcisAT/s1600/P3170012.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcAQM-uDfIv_gW9t0hrWXA8zDhPduls785bOBZx6yfK_4o0AKumOiUDQW2r7St3wCTLlqwFWZa3fZBzQfu4OXn7KXDPs7z1l-0SzWv1a2JolCUdEuGKZO8FKLdhNP3efBNUqqN6eVcisAT/s1600/P3170012.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC0yjeAWK64SpXDTEnu_u1c6hEW1wPFAqEbNVjZ6GHeVXp2xVea86O4PEDBng4Z9Fx-UTyXUJVF-qAzMP3NIqSAfGw7HsIUbAITq9yUgH7HSSIg7tBW0fabTozCBKOOo_Z0U8TokyQ8cmh/s1600/P3170014.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC0yjeAWK64SpXDTEnu_u1c6hEW1wPFAqEbNVjZ6GHeVXp2xVea86O4PEDBng4Z9Fx-UTyXUJVF-qAzMP3NIqSAfGw7HsIUbAITq9yUgH7HSSIg7tBW0fabTozCBKOOo_Z0U8TokyQ8cmh/s1600/P3170014.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a><o:p> </o:p></div>
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We moved a bit faster up left to get up to the higher cliff line and then headed back right to the cave.
By the time we got to the cave, my softshell pants were soaked, my
gloves were soaked and I was just generally soaking wet from the snow trenching we
did and from sweating hard from the effort. I was not too happy about being wet, but I did
bring a change of socks, a tee and a new fleece for under my jacket. Dave sat down on his pack and started to
untie his boots.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
DR “Damn, I forgot my socks” </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
DR “at least it’s warm out”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We did leave the parking at -1C, so he was right. I began to change my socks, put on my dry
fleece and eat a snack.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
DR “fuck”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
DR “Fuck”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
DR “FUCKKKK!!!”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
DR “God Dam it” <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
JJ “What?!?!?”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
DR “I don’t have my harness”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
JJ “What???” </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
JJ “What
the hell does that mean?!?!”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
JJ “Is it in your little pack?”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
DR “No, I checked everywhere, and I know exactly where it
is, hanging on the wall at the hotel”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
JJ “………”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Time goes by thinking of what to do…Dave starts to grab the
bail cord and starts to attempt to make a harness<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
JJ “What are you doing”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
DR “Making a harness, do you know how to make one?”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
JJ “Shit, it’s been like ten years since I made a swami out
of webbing in gym class in High School” <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
DR “Well, we need to figure something out”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhDBvTJi06CffrhEc2S9_Qf4UYNplquia8mcfQ1i-YBCthyphenhyphen1-Ds7nOqqhozmcHjoyoG8HeOZts2hAYmApMck_5m5NCgPw8aV8tj7NUziwLvx7w9z-1rrkVs23CdSIkCUEBWxL-v0SSs19K/s1600/IMG_1308.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhDBvTJi06CffrhEc2S9_Qf4UYNplquia8mcfQ1i-YBCthyphenhyphen1-Ds7nOqqhozmcHjoyoG8HeOZts2hAYmApMck_5m5NCgPw8aV8tj7NUziwLvx7w9z-1rrkVs23CdSIkCUEBWxL-v0SSs19K/s1600/IMG_1308.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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It’s now snowing harder and the visibility is back to low
while thinking of our options. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
JJ “We can stash our kit and come back in the am” </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
JJ “Just hope
it doesn't snow too much today to then have all our gear up here, and us down
there”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
DR “Exactly, and I don’t want to do that”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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Dave is still thinking about how to make a harness….I am
thinking he is nuts…F’n nuts. We decide
to cut one of our lead ropes and make a harness out of it.
Dave figures out how to wrap it around himself a few times, through the
legs and tie it off.<o:p></o:p></div>
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DR “It actually looks pretty nice”</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
As he goes to test it by
hanging off the hand line to climb up and out of the cave that is fixed. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
JJ “Your fucking nuts man”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
DR “We are going to do this!"</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
JJ “Your STILL fucking nuts man!”</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
DR “You have an extra belay device???”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
JJ “Nope”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
DR “It’s ok, I’ll
bring you up with a munter”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
JJ “And how will you get donw?”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
DR “Ill use a carabiner brake to rap with” <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
JJ “Ok, you’re really F’n nuts man!”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
DR “It’s all good, I did it with Kris last winter up here
when I dropped my ATC off a route the day before.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
JJ “Ok, works for me”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
DR “Yeah, I went to the gear shop to buy a new one that
night and I quickly grabbed an ATC, bought it and left, when
we got to the base of the route the next day, I realized I bought an ACT sport” <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
JJ “WHAT!!! HA!”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
DR “Who the hell buys those things, they are stupid”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
JJ “Dumbest thing I have ever seen, I have one seen one
person use one in my life”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
DR “Waste of money that was”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
So, Dave is all tied up into his new sporty harness, I give
him my one spare locker, and one of my two ice clippers and we call it
good. Up we go as we decided to just see
how it will all work out with the harness and do the first pitch. We pull up and out of the cave, and scramble
up to the first belay bolt while pulling the ropes up behind us. Dave takes off on the first WI3- approach pitch
of ice and sets up a belay at the base of the route <i>Postscriptum</i>. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
DR “Finally! Out of the F’n snow and onto some ice!”</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxn01g01fPPcNoscEkXoM7HPAxl2EPSzR8TgJQ1sLVZ9Op2jwH23AROlSvVITTtUpMxdDP7nLL1XYZO5P2KeRSGwNhJcEuNv2S7ZsaHFl4pa67WkPBRykqMmBCblRQOvuTrWWREUP3Ni_d/s1600/IMG_1318.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxn01g01fPPcNoscEkXoM7HPAxl2EPSzR8TgJQ1sLVZ9Op2jwH23AROlSvVITTtUpMxdDP7nLL1XYZO5P2KeRSGwNhJcEuNv2S7ZsaHFl4pa67WkPBRykqMmBCblRQOvuTrWWREUP3Ni_d/s1600/IMG_1318.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRibdRkAV0v1dFFR221jg2Ht9n_8SQsvXND7a8BXXYstkoTnlbGvmxZovpKVGyAfzIpV04q4Twm4yULcR96_2GZU6-EiJTqpn38kRRMUSa8hni6JAt4OUL2TEdkJn3If90uDlnX_qbVzch/s1600/IMG_1322.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRibdRkAV0v1dFFR221jg2Ht9n_8SQsvXND7a8BXXYstkoTnlbGvmxZovpKVGyAfzIpV04q4Twm4yULcR96_2GZU6-EiJTqpn38kRRMUSa8hni6JAt4OUL2TEdkJn3If90uDlnX_qbVzch/s1600/IMG_1322.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a>Dave leads <i>Postscriptum
</i>which was steeper than it looked from below. It’s given a 5 grade and deserved it to the 4
bolt belay on the top. Two new bolts and
two rusted old bolts that we hung off of, me in my harness and Dave in his…ouch.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
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Dave took the rock gear from me that he never ended up
placing and took off for the crux 2ed pitch which is clipping three rusted old
pins along the way of an M6+ traverse with bad feet. Holy shit that was hard to
follow, and impressive to watch! Dave made
it through figuring out the traverse and stoked when he found a jug at the last
pin to clip from. He then moved on to
the thin ice with most of his body weight on his arms feeling the pump
grow. He grabbed a stubby, and threw it
in. He found room for a screw somewhere
in those blobs of ice and clipped it off with the yellow rope, as the green
rope was for the left side pins. He
finally was able to get up above the steep section and onto thicker ice where
he could get a longer screw in. A 16cm
screw was started and turned out to be only 13cm thick ice Dave looks back at me…<o:p></o:p></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
JJ “I see, you cut MY rope, you munch MY screws”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
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<div class="MsoNormal">
Dave gets a big smile and we both laugh as two days before
he put one into some rock then as well…I have to admit, it was funny! He replaces it with a 13 and moves a bit
higher up.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT04Zhs3cqeXX5CrLiFD4TbHKyLQoscgmS8ssEzUCLRxI6C-FM0qFOj0lQpKTARCUwRknrCdcLGBCemk015B4DFdGdQuxFyufVbE3OyGu9LUuUGx1KOKvuWSyNg7Wo-EY4Lrq59KVSaWXA/s1600/IMG_1326.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT04Zhs3cqeXX5CrLiFD4TbHKyLQoscgmS8ssEzUCLRxI6C-FM0qFOj0lQpKTARCUwRknrCdcLGBCemk015B4DFdGdQuxFyufVbE3OyGu9LUuUGx1KOKvuWSyNg7Wo-EY4Lrq59KVSaWXA/s1600/IMG_1326.JPG" height="265" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0VtuZDvKnhnKWvahctUK6glXzi-2VV3oNq0XYFrEehIPbqOAoohRaYMal-MpCeY9eygKCdjUakVdVJ-D82ZaUDp5SPKvn8yn9brg5aygzTHNw01rEhKAR62ytKPeLRkCVLzD-CScDwYs4/s1600/IMG_1331.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0VtuZDvKnhnKWvahctUK6glXzi-2VV3oNq0XYFrEehIPbqOAoohRaYMal-MpCeY9eygKCdjUakVdVJ-D82ZaUDp5SPKvn8yn9brg5aygzTHNw01rEhKAR62ytKPeLRkCVLzD-CScDwYs4/s1600/IMG_1331.JPG" height="400" width="265" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5flVSvqMevC6vlFa5VixD_it_pO0zqZiqVPEPUQHbtnpec6aDDOgTozaP6gX-koevl5u0l7C5vSrEaah8aWEhs6peE324lMVT88eTgbKMU5Xbu6siOSSTObfxfIwwODyfVCM58AlaSkQc/s1600/IMG_1333.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5flVSvqMevC6vlFa5VixD_it_pO0zqZiqVPEPUQHbtnpec6aDDOgTozaP6gX-koevl5u0l7C5vSrEaah8aWEhs6peE324lMVT88eTgbKMU5Xbu6siOSSTObfxfIwwODyfVCM58AlaSkQc/s1600/IMG_1333.JPG" height="265" width="400" /></a></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
DR “Damit!” “ Son-of-a-bitch”</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I saw the next screw go flying by and down the wall landing in the snow slopes below. Just another
thing on the list to make today a good story is all I can think…<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Dave continues up past a small roof on the right by climbing the steep
ice on the right. He climbs steep grade 5 ice for another 30 meters and sets a belay.
Now I have to say, until this pitch the snow really slowed down to a
stop and the wind was almost nonexistent.
I have to say, until this pitch.
Just before Dave set off from the belay, the winds picked up and the
spindrift started in waves. Neither of
us could have climbed without hood the whole day after that. It was beginning to become full on fun conditions. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAgl3b-xZr-y9VJwfSX22j4Kw-UzXCUdelgXUTD9LTSF-ih6OlmTsNySjsFA8yl31EPCzTzcSGQmRmZBQFHkiwm2quho5_T5lPllYuKncpEzJRszq60KefZXZdNTm0M5sYCIXM0MSTHjV0/s1600/P3170017.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAgl3b-xZr-y9VJwfSX22j4Kw-UzXCUdelgXUTD9LTSF-ih6OlmTsNySjsFA8yl31EPCzTzcSGQmRmZBQFHkiwm2quho5_T5lPllYuKncpEzJRszq60KefZXZdNTm0M5sYCIXM0MSTHjV0/s1600/P3170017.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a><o:p> </o:p></div>
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I cleaned the pitch and had to take on the last of the fixed
pins. The pump was on full time, and I couldn’t
risk a fall on the 8mm ropes having 50 meters out. I would have stopped way out in no man’s land
under a large roof out in space…that would not have been good. So, I took on the pin to get my arms back,
then unclipped and finished the past moves onto the ice and continued up to
the belay Frekin impressive
lead by Dave right there.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlLBBTAQex9EeaM1yuBOLMjPpB6xNKHZ2JGpY4BBvKYpwiygwQ_tah2XXxjd2aI9y4YVWt3-AUrDaKFSQ70rnrdEFSJE0g14HvZH1z9hkiO9-Hz9SH1ebKjZ-Glsu-5ih9V7gd2gO4k-Mb/s1600/P3170019.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; display: inline !important; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlLBBTAQex9EeaM1yuBOLMjPpB6xNKHZ2JGpY4BBvKYpwiygwQ_tah2XXxjd2aI9y4YVWt3-AUrDaKFSQ70rnrdEFSJE0g14HvZH1z9hkiO9-Hz9SH1ebKjZ-Glsu-5ih9V7gd2gO4k-Mb/s1600/P3170019.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a>The third pitch was long, almost the length of our freshly fully cut 70m rope to
where Dave set a belay with his last two screws. It was steep grade 5 climbing
the whole way. I could barely look up at
the belay the whole time only getting in two peaks of Dave leading because of
the heavy spindrift that kept cascading down the wall. At times looking out across the valley I could
hardly see out as there was so much fine grained snow in suspension in the
air. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
JJ “10 meters”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
DR “WHAT? <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
DR “How much rope???”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
JJ “10 METERS” <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
JJ “THREE-ZERO FEET”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
DR “OK”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Some time passes and the ropes stop going out, my thoughts
are Dave is making the next belay.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
DR from up at the belay and I could hardly hear;</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“%&*($#@@^&$#Q@@#%$&^&**&%&*KGRKG**-+&&*^%##$@$^&^&())”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
JJ “ummmm….WAHT?”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
DR “KEEP ME ON BELAY”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
JJ “OK?!?"<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
A few more minutes<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
DR “OFF BELAY”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
JJ “OFF DAVE”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The ropes go tight and I decide to keep my parka on to clean
the final pitch as by now my legs are shaking in the cold and covered
with spindrift that I kept trying to brush off. I followed up what I learned was then the
final pitch to the belay where I meet back up
with Dave.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
JJ “That was freking steep!”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
JJ “SOoo Pumped!”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
DR “Nice job man”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
JJ “Not me Dave, all you!”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
JJ “What were you yelling about up here?”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
DR “Oh just a little hissy fit”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
DR “Those were the worst barfies of my life!”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Dave got the barfies. All I could was imagine, as my hands were cold with frozen
gloves and I was on a top rope!</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8brwn2jAbODSEnemFbeQ3cBSGtaWxE5rQZknxd7OrZt41Q5aBDOFTIedswAoCdZyJq8p-vkgL4GEN4gzPVcJPQr64WY6YwPCFYT_f8ueYKgJN2iLxkCeKjqxO6UtIUhYoKF8hPcYpHmy_/s1600/P3170024.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8brwn2jAbODSEnemFbeQ3cBSGtaWxE5rQZknxd7OrZt41Q5aBDOFTIedswAoCdZyJq8p-vkgL4GEN4gzPVcJPQr64WY6YwPCFYT_f8ueYKgJN2iLxkCeKjqxO6UtIUhYoKF8hPcYpHmy_/s1600/P3170024.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
I moved the top belay left onto the better ice that Dave
spotted to make a top V thread to begin the raps with. When I bought
Dave over, he dropped a glove as the wind took it down and out of sight. So, one camo belay mitt from Gander Mountain
on the left, and one glove on the right.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivFQa_vDjTm7cMWeOpGRxEvUhcY0s03_qrs4SbqdFCE8lVRrLEcG9P1TSXLBGe-6FUCZZCFnyGQBqPjb2AjAHgOxtp0RFZuUKsYkmnFCvgwrkfiODRJPXdLux4wxetdFbXYGlTg4aYpJXl/s1600/IMG_1337.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivFQa_vDjTm7cMWeOpGRxEvUhcY0s03_qrs4SbqdFCE8lVRrLEcG9P1TSXLBGe-6FUCZZCFnyGQBqPjb2AjAHgOxtp0RFZuUKsYkmnFCvgwrkfiODRJPXdLux4wxetdFbXYGlTg4aYpJXl/s1600/IMG_1337.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
Dave drilled the holes and I tied the cord and we started
down the first of what turned out to be 5 raps. I went down using my trusty ATC
and Dave rigged up a carabineer brake. I
had him on a fireman’s from the bottom just in case…<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRSnMQ80_VvoNEPlB5FRZ2yqjzUNA_mnFDtDEg1i_86RQsswpRh0iS9qTPv5iz7G_hbVmKEizcZ5AkVKW38UbSl3PBhbcJHecJa5AXfsu9776f3oQdUsby40IDsjcuK-jZrQAxca_bCF1B/s1600/P3170030.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRSnMQ80_VvoNEPlB5FRZ2yqjzUNA_mnFDtDEg1i_86RQsswpRh0iS9qTPv5iz7G_hbVmKEizcZ5AkVKW38UbSl3PBhbcJHecJa5AXfsu9776f3oQdUsby40IDsjcuK-jZrQAxca_bCF1B/s1600/P3170030.JPG" height="200" width="150" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
DR “Are you pulling on the ropes?!?!”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
JJ “No”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
2 minute later<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
DR “Are you pulling on the ropes?!?!?!?!?”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
JJ “NOPE”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I watched Dave make the raps stopping about every 20 meters
and arch his back way out, wondering wtf.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
DR “ Really hurts man” </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
DR “It’s all on my waist”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
JJ speechless…..<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
DR “Ya know, this harness isn't as nice as my other one at
home” <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
DR “I think I want to return it”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Both of us just laughing, as the day just got funnier and
funnier as it went on.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtjKc50q1OyY_QpgJERhRvTK2PshoBJauzziLQiI430bCiuHZdJlBdGQ0xvDNXMgcx23_yQajpfo_cqCs5tNi40dQiGTEZOE-25RR9P6Tu8Zw9IouoBxlBlvedJ2GZLKqUTizy2Ag7W6gw/s1600/IMG_1340.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtjKc50q1OyY_QpgJERhRvTK2PshoBJauzziLQiI430bCiuHZdJlBdGQ0xvDNXMgcx23_yQajpfo_cqCs5tNi40dQiGTEZOE-25RR9P6Tu8Zw9IouoBxlBlvedJ2GZLKqUTizy2Ag7W6gw/s1600/IMG_1340.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
I lead the rest of the raps, making it back to the bolted
belay, top of pitch one by swinging way out right then back left a few times to
stick the ice with my tool and then clip
the bolts with my PAS. Dave came down and I pulled him over to the belay with the slack in the ropes and he clipped
in as well.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
JJ “Ya know, we could have made the ground with full 70’s”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
DR “Yeah, damn it”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
One more rap down to the next thread on the
WI3- approach pitch to get almost back to the first belay bolt, Then one more 30 m rap back
to the cave. But, the green rope got stuck as we were pulling them down….<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
DR “The rope is stuck, I can’t pull it”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
JJ “fuckin hell”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Dave was pulling as hard as he could, and he is a strong
dude, so then I put my prussic on it to pull down as well. No luck.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
DR “Why don't you rap on yellow with the rope tied to you”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
JJ “Good plan”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
So, we pulled yellow through and I go down with
green tied off to me. Not a budge, all I did was take out the
stretch of the rope, and not a millimeter more. So, we decided to leave the
rope as now it is 7pm and we are both beginning to get a bit tuckered. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
So, back to the one bolt anchor that we started this all
from and I wanted to rap the final 30 meters and Dave wanted to down climb.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
JJ “ I am a bit tired and it will be safer for me to rap, I am
going to rap”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
DR “Ok, sounds good”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I take a quick look in the knot in the bail cord around the
bolt and notice it is a dbl bowline and start down not checking out any other
parts of the system. I get about 10 meters down, with my full weight on the rope and Dave yells.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
DR “STOP! Take your
weight off the rope!!” <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Not knowing whats up…<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
DR “This thing is almost cut through, there are about two
strands holding you right now”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYEMO7wwfshxkDtRWjBQ6mkzy8hgrOll170TvfOvg1G4tMKR94sH_nplfhZOShn81COMML1FB0hk_CjxHBJRGcEfEWKQqe7ECwQ7ofpIBseepIQ-81eHna-u_7UAnf9rtCzrwkgmu0EaVF/s1600/IMG_1341.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYEMO7wwfshxkDtRWjBQ6mkzy8hgrOll170TvfOvg1G4tMKR94sH_nplfhZOShn81COMML1FB0hk_CjxHBJRGcEfEWKQqe7ECwQ7ofpIBseepIQ-81eHna-u_7UAnf9rtCzrwkgmu0EaVF/s1600/IMG_1341.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Me thinking HOLY SHIT”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
DR “I am going to put
my bail cord around this, hold on.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
DR “Ok, you are good to go now”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
JJ “Thanks!”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
A few seconds later when it all registers<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
JJ “Thanks for saving my life Dave” “Appreciate it”</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
So, we make it back to the cave, repack our one rope, less a
screw and a glove for the rest of the kit. We eat some food and drink, then begin the process of going
down. This time a different way. The
bowl below us is even more wind loaded then we thought before so we take the
high traverse back out and onto the ridgeline.
We have to cross one more snow bowl though to get out, although much smaller
than the other. So, Dave goes first as I
watch, then he watches me cross safely and we begin the down back to the car. We keep our crampons on the whole way back to
the bottom of the slope as it was super fast going down over the iced up lower
trail with traction and we make it back to the road to walk out not a problem. About 10 minutes before making it back to the car I was
starting to bonk and ate two bars to get me the rest of the way, arriving at the car at 10pm. It was a long day out. Lots of laughter, lots
of hard climbing, LOTS of spindrift and all in all, a super fun but slightly
crazy day.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSVb0Loy6LFCG-12GrAxW2XSX71y2cIQBkfaE-Whpwsb9YbQ9illozrwzV4THn47DyJjnY1yIOWvrG2aH_yiMEVlfsQ5RjBrh3U2zKSzqf0gk069A1Ci7RaF7XJTISZMQyeEGzfkdOP9F3/s1600/P3170031.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSVb0Loy6LFCG-12GrAxW2XSX71y2cIQBkfaE-Whpwsb9YbQ9illozrwzV4THn47DyJjnY1yIOWvrG2aH_yiMEVlfsQ5RjBrh3U2zKSzqf0gk069A1Ci7RaF7XJTISZMQyeEGzfkdOP9F3/s1600/P3170031.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
JJhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07538273146924056416noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1438031184758937320.post-32019242965151964372014-02-26T12:49:00.000-06:002014-02-26T12:49:35.406-06:00Mike Filming and shooting HMR in Picture Rocks National PArk<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dxJb5GluEffsjPIjtoQN_Q1ZL9QWcU0sfihGeBcBy27CaLh8XWC-92zRWqXe7rwV5VyuzyJ4yaM_eZT3--MfQ' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
<br />JJhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07538273146924056416noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1438031184758937320.post-38453734933453792702014-02-16T20:35:00.004-06:002014-02-16T20:35:56.901-06:00GIF from 3Peterfest<a href="https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/106338148780598925981/albums/5981054538752471105/5981054611118196834?pid=5981054611118196834&oid=106338148780598925981">https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/106338148780598925981/albums/5981054538752471105/5981054611118196834?pid=5981054611118196834&oid=106338148780598925981</a>JJhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07538273146924056416noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1438031184758937320.post-65399780840006380122014-02-10T12:27:00.003-06:002014-02-10T12:27:43.396-06:00Starved Rock State ParkI finally got the opportunity to get back down for some ice climbing. I can only thank this long, cold winter that we are having. Hope to get back down there again soon as I think this is the best ice in the "south"<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixHxcXlaXTR6eLoan_zwYWaIoErLCHLGfrwTjLBT7vQCKml3Bg9N6aa_RwMveAESvdCqQGPfDAmXfgpdJ6KWA-Mugj4sp6pNpjb7FrBcvmTMLgR2ueLDAB6Ate4x5AHTiv1DskPAAYAxdt/s1600/1800247_10151965775996973_295668523_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixHxcXlaXTR6eLoan_zwYWaIoErLCHLGfrwTjLBT7vQCKml3Bg9N6aa_RwMveAESvdCqQGPfDAmXfgpdJ6KWA-Mugj4sp6pNpjb7FrBcvmTMLgR2ueLDAB6Ate4x5AHTiv1DskPAAYAxdt/s1600/1800247_10151965775996973_295668523_n.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
Left is a pic of me leading Tonti in picked out conditions. The left, slightly steeper line was soaking wet...bummer.<br />
<br />
I also go in a lead of the far right side on Wildcat. The rest of the entire column of ice was even wetter than Tonti. At 80' Wildcat is the largest piece of ice in 400 miles and fun to climb as well.JJhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07538273146924056416noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1438031184758937320.post-67187757238191498252014-01-02T21:33:00.001-06:002014-01-02T21:33:20.228-06:00The South Fork-One week of ice in heavenSouth Fork of the Shoshone, Wyoming. The last days of 2013, and into 2014 — with <a href="https://www.facebook.com/steve.robitshek">Steve Robitshek</a>.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9LfLZryAW1XrVbDC8kemCSbyMnWpsXf9hS13MakxNYlGeaKIsz9TD19tCy_nMUGj6uLZrTINYhyphenhyphenLDreetl3ZOuJ2G_qHtxdXNvPhgZu0tn14JTFF3_-1ddsfg-zXFQbLVfKztCitmZXmm/s1600/IMG_0731.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9LfLZryAW1XrVbDC8kemCSbyMnWpsXf9hS13MakxNYlGeaKIsz9TD19tCy_nMUGj6uLZrTINYhyphenhyphenLDreetl3ZOuJ2G_qHtxdXNvPhgZu0tn14JTFF3_-1ddsfg-zXFQbLVfKztCitmZXmm/s400/IMG_0731.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
(Click the images for enlarged photos)<br />
<br />
The hit list for the first 6 days;<br />
<br />
-The Schoolhouse Route<br />
-Broken Hearts to top of P4. The 5th pitch was in 5/5+ conditions and wet. Didn't attempt it. Attempted to link to Broken Ribs, but it was out. Looked at stringer next, also out.<br />
-Spyin n' Flyin, climbed 1st pitch twice as the crux 3rd pitch was out. Bummer as it looked like it would have been fun.<br />
-Sendero Illuminoso<br />
-Cabin Fever and the first pitch of Wyoming Wave. We hike up the other drainage to check it out as well, but nothing until my boot went underwater in a small pool.<br />
-First 60m of California Dreams-rest was out.<br />
-The Moratorium<br />
<br />
<br />
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<br />JJhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07538273146924056416noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1438031184758937320.post-25620264960235690622013-12-17T23:05:00.002-06:002013-12-17T23:05:58.741-06:00BD Fuel<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Counting the days till I get my hands on a pair. </div>
JJhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07538273146924056416noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1438031184758937320.post-50498637063575090142013-09-04T13:32:00.002-05:002013-09-04T13:33:24.228-05:00The Dryerhose<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />JJhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07538273146924056416noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1438031184758937320.post-15583197999146801842013-08-04T13:25:00.001-05:002013-08-04T13:25:49.476-05:00OR-two cool things<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
1. Old school Metolius gear.</div>
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2. A "Deep Water" solo comp...the pool was 12' deep, and the wall was 55' high. I would have to say, this was the best part of the show the whole week.<br />
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<br />JJhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07538273146924056416noreply@blogger.com0